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Thread: Should I get a 3D printer...?

  1. #76
    Crabby Smurf Umfriend's Avatar
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    So I am not posting here but following this with interest. One of my kids is into making D&D dice and is thinking about using a 3D printer to print molds. So please keep it coming.
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  2. #77
    Super MURCer Evildead666's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greebe View Post
    Finished in 17 hrs 55 min. "Solid enough to pummel someone with it" and "wouldn't want to get hit by it even if thrown". Comments from a few friends lol
    Good piece
    What are the dimensions of this vase ?
    And the weight ?
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  3. #78
    Moderator VJ's Avatar
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    I finished rewiring and refitting the BLTouch (it was outside of specs, hopefully that was the reason it was off) but still have not had the time to try again... so many things ongoing... and very busy at work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Umfriend View Post
    So I am not posting here but following this with interest. One of my kids is into making D&D dice and is thinking about using a 3D printer to print molds. So please keep it coming.
    One thing: if you build from scratch (like I did), it is great fun and you learn a lot, but don't expect to have good prints fast. I am at the point that I saw the potential of my printer, but still was not getting consistent good prints due to the issue with the z-probe. Now I need a couple of hours of undisturbed time to continue with it, if the z-probe issue turns out to be solved, I can start optimizing speeds and start printing.
    So, if you want to print fast, look at a finished machine or a full kit.
    pixar
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  4. #79
    Super MURCer Greebe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evildead666 View Post
    Good piece
    What are the dimensions of this vase ?
    And the weight ?
    Ctron vase as sliced per my insane need to make each piece tell me how my machine is off, lol, is exactly to spec at 180mm tall (~7" peeps) and weighs in at 200g
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  5. #80
    Super MURCer Greebe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VJ View Post
    I finished rewiring and refitting the BLTouch (it was outside of specs, hopefully that was the reason it was off) but still have not had the time to try again... so many things ongoing... and very busy at work.
    That would only affect the first layer, if too close to bed can possibly clog nozzle and an least over extrude leaving excess crusty residue that can potentially have detrimental effects on subsequent layers. If too large gap turn up the volume on the extruder til first layer is done. Helps to drop speed way down for this. Additionally make a skirt, say 6 wide and get your extruder tweaked manually prior to actual first layer of part. It helps. I do not have auto bed leveling operational as of yet. I'm all manual for that atm

    One thing: if you build from scratch (like I did), it is great fun and you learn a lot, but don't expect to have good prints fast. I am at the point that I saw the potential of my printer, but still was not getting consistent good prints due to the issue with the z-probe. Now I need a couple of hours of undisturbed time to continue with it, if the z-probe issue turns out to be solved, I can start optimizing speeds and start printing.
    So, if you want to print fast, look at a finished machine or a full kit.
    My full kit has so many mods to it now it's hard to say what it really is, Frankenfurters CR-10S S4 Heavy Duty V6 Gold dual dual... installing dual bmg clone extuders per hotend to prevent filament being pulled off the spool from torquing the hotend out of alignment. It will have the filament end sensor between the two so to have plenty of wiggle room for splicing if required and amply slack that will remain synchronous without putting print at jeopardy.

    Yesterday spent half the day installing and reinstalling new anti backlash Z only to come to the conclusion they were incorrectly machined. One high res closeout of the specific part installed confirmed. RMA incorrectly machined. Uggg that is a lot of work requiring removal of everything up top so that the gantry ca be removed. Not together yet, later today.

    Waiting on AMAZON to deliver more filament, 1kg spools of petg in transparent purple, blue, red, rose, fluorescent yellow and green. Also picked up a spool of transperant aqua blue pla. All of these, minus red and rose are 3D Solutech. Good stuff.

    Stringing issues with petg, turn down the temps, if too cold object will lose glossy luster, but will extrude. Up it and hair til glossiness resumes. All parts even non glossy are very strong, just too low in the glass transition region.
    Turn up retraction rate, helps as do faster moves between hops.

    Those little crusty, zit, dendrite like nasties are almost 100% from over extrusion!!!
    Turn down flow rate. Example. Mine calibrated exactly 100mm required 8% reduction in extrusion before it stopped completely. The end result was a more accurate exterior layer
    "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

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  6. #81
    Moderator VJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greebe View Post
    That would only affect the first layer, if too close to bed can possibly clog nozzle and an least over extrude leaving excess crusty residue that can potentially have detrimental effects on subsequent layers. If too large gap turn up the volume on the extruder til first layer is done. Helps to drop speed way down for this. Additionally make a skirt, say 6 wide and get your extruder tweaked manually prior to actual first layer of part. It helps. I do not have auto bed leveling operational as of yet. I'm all manual for that atm
    My issue was that the BLTouch was not consistent and gave an increasing error on each subsequent Z-probing. So a first homing was ok, but a second one not. Probing for mesh-correction yielded very weird result, as the error increased with every probing. The BLTouch issue may have been due to the fact that it was mounted with a Z-offset that was outside of specifications (very important to check which version of BLTouch you have, as they all have different specs). I refitted it to be within specifications but have not managed to test it since.

    As for auto levelling: my printer has 2 z-screws, each with its own motor and the mainboard does support independent addressing of the z-motors to achieve left/right levelling. I have not yet done this as it is a bit more complicated (currently, both motors are run as one), but it is on my todo list. First though, I need to be sure that the Z-probe is probing correctly.
    pixar
    Dream as if you'll live forever. Live as if you'll die tomorrow. (James Dean)

  7. #82
    Super MURCer Greebe's Avatar
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    Anti backlash Z axis nuts were improperly machined, so off they can. Put the machine to the side for a few days. Modified Left side of gantry with a concentric nut, matching the right gantry side. This made it much better in alignment, smoother for sure. Added additional Stepper/ BMG extruder clone to pull filamentoff of reel without causing any issues with hotend being torqued around. It's Hogepog'd with Ty wraps and Hotglue atm.

    Red translucent PETG vase this time. 2 layer walls this time around
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

    "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

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