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**SteveC** · 4 January 2001, 08:57

PS: The SuperOrb looks so fantastic that I don't care if it's not the best heatsink+fan, I just have to keep it in my machine!

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Cheers,
Steve

"Life is what we make of it, yet most of us just fake"

**ayoub_ibrahim** · 4 January 2001, 13:54

hmm, have you got a transparent tower case then SteveC?

**SteveC** · 4 January 2001, 14:16

Don't tempt me! I'm already thinking about modding my case so I have perspex sides....

PS: I have been at my case with the jigsaw tonight hacking more holes in it. Pictures to follow!

------------------
Cheers,
Steve

"Life is what we make of it, yet most of us just fake"

**SCompRacer** · 4 January 2001, 14:53

Nice going, SteveC! I've got a Chrome Orb on a 900MHz 'bird, waiting for the Arctic Silver to come in. Then I'll pencil in on the L1 Bridge and give it a go.

While it's nothing new, I wanted to try and rig a fresh air duct direct to my orb to provide non-preheated air for cooling. I put as many SCSI drives at top of tower as I could, but the lower drives still add to case temp.

**SteveC** · 4 January 2001, 15:13

Right, I've just found out I was talking crap up there.....

The revised table:

<table>
<tr><td>Coolermaster 'copper pipe' heatsink with the pad removed and copper base cleaned and arctic silver used</td><td>??'C</td><td>~??'C</td></tr>

<tr><td>SuperOrb heatsink with the arctic silver heatsink compound</td><td>~43'C</td><td>~47'C</td></tr>
</table>

I was wrong before, because I tested out the new heatsink in a totally different environment as the first two tests. Back home, under the same conditions, I get the new results above. The ??'s are because I've never tried that heatsink with the arctic silver at home (I don't have any of the stuff here).

This shows that the SuperOrb isn't actually a lot better than my first Coolermaster Copper Heat Pipe one. (But as it looks cool, I might keep it )

As I said earlier, I have modded my case again tonight. I've made another huge hole! This time at the front.

Before, I had a big (120mm I think) fan at the back top. As below:

Tonight, I've added another to the front!

Both can be seen here:

and once all back together,

MY PC is a bit louder from the rushing of air, but as these fans are pretty quiet, it's not that bad. The SuperOrb's pretty loud though!

I also cut a small rectangle out of the facia at the front bottom of my case, and then put feet on it. This hole's for the new fan, but I think it's gonna act like a hoover when I put my case back on the floor! Already I can put a sheet of A4 on the front of my PC and it gets sucked onto the front of it!

Mainboard temperature hasn't gone over 27'C yet.

MY PC isn't quite stable at 1200Mhz though... at 12x100 it seems to run fine, but as the PC nears 50'C it starts bluescreening on me (win2k). The CPU voltage is at 1.85V, I can't go any higher, and any lower and the PC is even more unstable.
11x110 (1210Mhz) is also a bit too unstable for my liking.

I might try a FOP38 if I can even get my hands on one!

------------------
Cheers,
Steve

"Life is what we make of it, yet most of us just fake"

**ALBPM** · 4 January 2001, 15:46

Here's the results page of a heat sink review
that was done on a Duron.

http://www.smokinmhz.com/articles/heatsinks4.shtml

Paul

**ayoub_ibrahim** · 4 January 2001, 15:48

nice mods Steve! just wondered why you didn't cut a blowhole at the top of the case.

**Guru** · 4 January 2001, 16:12

Here is a test where you can listen to the noice of the various h/sinks! http://www.ocinside.de/index_e.html?...an_test_e.html

**Greebe** · 4 January 2001, 16:44

Steve, without reporting and or compensating for ambient case/room temps (not measured by the MB which is effected by adjacient componets, PCB etc) those measurements are rather worthless.

I always try to measure ambient temps with a calibrated digital thermometer at the Fan intake (if blowing) or just in front of the HS inlet if sucking when testing various HS's for effectiveness.

Humidity also plays into this, but not many have a calibrated (and expensive) hygrometer. Same goes for barometric pressure, but to me that's getting a little excessive!

**SteveC** · 4 January 2001, 17:05

OK, but they are fine for comparisons made against each other. Finally done over tonight and last night - same weather here both nights, both done around the same time too. They should be pretty much comparable.

Basically the Arctic Silver makes a few degrees celcius difference, and the SuperOrb is quite similar in performance to the coolermaster copper heat pipe heatsink, but little bit better.

------------------
Cheers,
Steve

"Life is what we make of it, yet most of us just fake"

**SteveC** · 4 January 2001, 17:09

Originally posted by ayoub_ibrahim:
nice mods Steve! just wondered why you didn't cut a blowhole at the top of the case.

ayoub - I didn't want to wreck the outside of my case like I did with an old one of mine a while back... I want to keep the sides, front and top perfect. Make sense?

------------------
Cheers,
Steve

"Life is what we make of it, yet most of us just fake"

**SCompRacer** · 5 January 2001, 14:15

Originally posted by SteveC:
ayoub - I didn't want to wreck the outside of my case like I did with an old one of mine a while back... I want to keep the sides, front and top perfect. Make sense?

Come on SteveC, you want practicality and appearance? Actually I admire that, shows maturity.

As far as ambient air and humidity go, Greebe makes a good point. I learned long ago through racing how humidity affects heat rejection as well as power output. Humans learn it too. Humidity can be like adding salt to your favorite recipe, too much, too little or just right.

I'd like to see at least ambient readings posted with all reviews of coolers, humidity would be a plus. At least it "may" explain the different readings some get between coolers. Of course we could make it complicated by wanting expensive calibrated instruments. Or just a simple $50 Radio Shack one used by homeowners to adjust their humidistats to control humidity in the house.

**SteveC** · 9 January 2001, 02:44

I re-did all my tests in a much stricter environment the other day (but couldn't post here cos 'here' was dead ). I'll post it up later. (FOP38 vs Coolermaster Heatpipe vs Taisol CGK742 vs SuperOrb vs Taisol Heatsink + FOP38's Fan )

------------------
Cheers,
Steve

"Life is what we make of it, yet most of us just fake"

**SteveC** · 9 January 2001, 06:25

Right then. All tests done on a 1Gig Tbird, running at 11x100Mhz (@ 1.85V to stress the heatsink)

Idle: Booted Up Windows 2000 Professional. Close down all programs, and let it sit for 5 minutes.

Load: 10 Tests of Prime 95's Self Test. Takes around 15 minutes, CPU 100% load.

<table><tr><td>Heatsink Name</td><td>Idle ('C/'F)</td><td>Load ('C/'F)</td></tr>
<tr><td>FOP38</td><td>39/102</td><td>42/107</td></tr>
<tr><td>SuperOrb</td><td>42/107</td><td>46/114</td></tr>
<tr><td>Coolermaster Heat Pipe</td><td>42/107</td><td>47/116</td></tr>
<tr><td>Taisol CGK742</td><td>41/105</td><td>46/114</td></tr>
<tr><td>-</td><td>-</td><td>-</td></tr>
<tr><td>FOP38's Fan on Taisol Heatsink</td><td>39/102</td><td>41/105</td></tr>
</table>

All heatsinks on CPU with Arctic Silver Heatsink compound.

Ambient (mainboard) temperature was 24/75 - 25/77 ('C/'F). All tests done within a couple of hours.

The hybrid heatsink (FOP38's fan + Taisol Heatsink) lets me run at 1.2Ghz (12x100, 1.85V) at ~42'C 100% CPU load !!

Remember my case has a pretty high airflow through it, so the CPU temps may be higher in other cases, but this should serve as a guide to heatsink performances.

Better Greebe?

------------------
Cheers,
Steve

"Life is what we make of it, yet most of us just fake"

[This message has been edited by SteveC (edited 09 January 2001).]

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