Arctic Silver compound and copper spacer... WOW!

[DuRaNgO]

Picked up a copper spacer and some Arctic Silver compound this week, decided it was time to replace the compound on my MC-1000 since the warm summer weather made the case temp higher than normal

It used to run at 58f, booted up and ran 3dMark2000 (got a little over 3600 )and the temp never goes over 49f!!!!

Don't know which one was mostly responsible for the improvement, but I'm very happy
jim

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P3-700e @ 1052! Check it here!
Abit BE6-2
TwinMos 128mb pc-133
G400 32mb DH
Maxtor 15.3gb 7,200rpm
SB Live!
Winblows 98se & DX7
and 384k DSL!

[ALBPM]

Is this a new cold plate (solid) or the shim with the cutout to fit around the processor??

Paul

[DuRaNgO]

It had a cold plate already, this is a shim with a cut-out for the slug
jim

[Greebe]

And I've been saying that almost all year now. Copper spacers do the trick! Artic Silver just makes it just that tad bit better!

[DentyCracker]

Still waiting for my little copper HSF anf Artic Silver to reach grrrrr. Anybody used the ATTech CM25 Solid Copper HSF ? Saw in a review where they were better than the Chrome orbs, and close to the Alphas

[ALBPM]

At least the ATTech won't chip your processor or break your socket. I've read of many who had to replace their processors, slotkets or mobos because of the "Gorbage" clips.
The edges of my P3-800 are chipped from an encounter with a Gorb. I just had it on and off one time while waiting for an Alpha heatsink that I ordered.

So, I'm scrounging around this weekend looking through my stashes of copper and silver sheet for making jewelry to find the right size piece for a spacer.
I have this gut feeling that one of these next times I remove and reattach a heatsink
my P3 is going to crack unless I start using a spacer.

I've prepared enough samples for SEM (Scanning Electon Microscope)cross sections to know how easily it is for silicon to crack once you nick the edge.

You can nick the edge of a whole wafer with a diamond scribe and get them to break with very little pressure. We have a guy at work who can do this so precisely that he can simply nick and break right through any structure in specific die on a whole wafer.
Without this talent one needs to polish the sample until you hit the requested structures which takes too much time. So, now on the SEM requests I tell him to just "Snap and Shoot" whatever structures I need to see.

I'm babbling here.... Protect those processor chips!!! They are very fragile

Paul

[DentyCracker]

Even with the standard Cooler Master POS HSFyu can chip the edge of the processor. I think I may have done this early on

[ALBPM]

Ya, they are all bad especially due to the F@@#@king spring clips that are used on the socket processor heatsinks. This usually results in uneven pressure when you install one by yourself. You have to put one side on first which then tends to make contact with the processor on that end. So, you tend to rock the heatsink in place instead of being able to evenly clamp it in place all at once.

The only good solution I've seen are the "screw type" clamps that Gabe over at http://www.swiftnets.com/ designed for use on his heatsinks and pelt/HS combos.
But they are specifically designed for the Heatsinks that he has made for his products.

DuRaNgO, has it "GOOD" with his MC1000 from Swiftec, plus he added a spacer

Paul

[DuRaNgO]

I'll tell you, the slot 1 is so much easier to cool, from both sides also
jim

[ALBPM]

I got my spacer a few days ago from 2CoolTek
http://www.2cooltek.com/index.html
since Gabe at Swiftec doesn't sell them anymore.

Makes quite a difference. The internal CPU diode temp is steady at 15 degC or 59 degF instead of the 19-20 degC or 66.2 to 68.0 degF with my 68W pelt and Hedgehog heatsink. This of course is with Arctic Silver paste which I've been using for quite awhile.

I'm still waiting for a 78W peltier and new gasket for my thicker silver coldplate from Swiftec. Greebe convinced me to get a pelt from Gabe since he only sells the Tellurex brand Peltiers which are the best.

In my current Peltier setup I'm only using the Arctic Silver on the cold side and on the processor. I was afraid it would dry out on the hot side that makes contact with the heatsink.

I found some more info on the Arctic Silver and it can hold up to temps slightly over 400 degF with out drying up. So, when I assemble the 78W pelt I'll use it on the hot side as well.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/]http://...ticsilver.com/


Paul

[This message has been edited by ALBPM (edited 06 October 2000).]

[DuRaNgO]

great toys for sure!
jim