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  • Sony Stereo Problem.... need help fixing it...

    First off, i would like to say that this model, CFD-380, is a limited model, as in i cant find this ANYWHERE on the internet... but i know its made by SONY... i emailed them with no response

    my problem: i use a CD-Cassette adapter in my stereo from my computer because it has no auxiliary input, but i had to leave the cassette deck open, so i think some dust got in there

    and now it plays/records at ~10% slower than normal and this happens to both decks, not just the one i kept open...

    i think that the motor is going slower because i would think that one motor is connected to both decks...

    can someone help me?? what do you think is wrong?? how can i fix this??

    ------------------
    P5A-B AMD K6-266@300
    Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP (oh, lets party)
    Creative SB Awe32 (a classic, superb card)
    Realtek 8029A NIC Card
    64meg Ram
    Ali V agp chipset
    ICQ UIN: 24730025
    <font size="1">Gigabyte GA-6VXC7-4X MoBo
    VIA Apollo Pro 133a (694x/686A) chipset (4x agp, UDMA 66)
    Celeron II 733 CPU (coppermine 128)
    128meg (2x64) 133mhz SDRam
    Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP 16 mb
    Creative Sound Blaster Live! 5.1 Digital model 0100 (MP3+, Gamer)
    Quantum LM 30 gig HD 7200 RPM UDMA 66
    Realtek 8029A NIC Card
    Optiquest V775 17" Monitor
    Actima 36X CD-Rom
    Advansys 510 SCSI Card (ISA, but good enuf for my burner)
    Yamaha 6416 CD-RW
    Windows 2000 (primary)
    Slackware Linux 9.0(secondary/emergency)</font>

  • #2
    could be your motor but try changing the drive belt first as with time & usage it becomes quite stretched.

    Comment


    • #3
      k, well im open to suggestions, i cant open it up right now, its made in such a way that i need a really long and thin screwdriver, because there is a DEEP (as in nearly the whole width, 7inches) hole for the screw and its narrow.

      so continue suggestions, when i open it i will give u more feedback...

      ------------------
      P5A-B AMD K6-266@300
      Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP (oh, lets party)
      Creative SB Awe32 (a classic, superb card)
      Realtek 8029A NIC Card
      64meg Ram
      Ali V agp chipset
      ICQ UIN: 24730025

      [This message has been edited by nehalmistry (edited 10 September 2000).]
      <font size="1">Gigabyte GA-6VXC7-4X MoBo
      VIA Apollo Pro 133a (694x/686A) chipset (4x agp, UDMA 66)
      Celeron II 733 CPU (coppermine 128)
      128meg (2x64) 133mhz SDRam
      Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP 16 mb
      Creative Sound Blaster Live! 5.1 Digital model 0100 (MP3+, Gamer)
      Quantum LM 30 gig HD 7200 RPM UDMA 66
      Realtek 8029A NIC Card
      Optiquest V775 17" Monitor
      Actima 36X CD-Rom
      Advansys 510 SCSI Card (ISA, but good enuf for my burner)
      Yamaha 6416 CD-RW
      Windows 2000 (primary)
      Slackware Linux 9.0(secondary/emergency)</font>

      Comment


      • #4
        replace capstan belt(s).
        "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

        "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

        Comment


        • #5
          greebe: WTH is that?

          ------------------
          P5A-B AMD K6-266@300
          Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP (oh, lets party)
          Creative SB Awe32 (a classic, superb card)
          Realtek 8029A NIC Card
          64meg Ram
          Ali V agp chipset
          ICQ UIN: 24730025
          <font size="1">Gigabyte GA-6VXC7-4X MoBo
          VIA Apollo Pro 133a (694x/686A) chipset (4x agp, UDMA 66)
          Celeron II 733 CPU (coppermine 128)
          128meg (2x64) 133mhz SDRam
          Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP 16 mb
          Creative Sound Blaster Live! 5.1 Digital model 0100 (MP3+, Gamer)
          Quantum LM 30 gig HD 7200 RPM UDMA 66
          Realtek 8029A NIC Card
          Optiquest V775 17" Monitor
          Actima 36X CD-Rom
          Advansys 510 SCSI Card (ISA, but good enuf for my burner)
          Yamaha 6416 CD-RW
          Windows 2000 (primary)
          Slackware Linux 9.0(secondary/emergency)</font>

          Comment


          • #6
            NEH:

            Somewhere just to the right of the tape head is a small metal pin with a rubber wheel underneath it. This is the capstan and the wheel is the capstan roller. This metal pin pinches the tape between itself and the rubber wheel and pulls the tape across the head.

            Most problems have to do with s**t being wrapped around the capstan, or the rubber roller itself becoming worn. Clean thoroughly the entire area with some alcohol and see if this doesn't help.

            If both the play and record deck are running slower, you'll probably have to go inside and look for the belts that run the capstan(s) and clean or replace them. If this is typical newer plastic cased portable cassette s**t, you can forget getting parts...just pitch the thing in the trash and get another one. Repair service and serviceability on newer/cheaper audio is hard to find.

            [This message has been edited by Bixler (edited 11 September 2000).]
            Greebe's juiced up Athlon @750 on an MSI Irongate Based M/B Marvel G200 TV with HW/DVD Daughtercard,
            CDBurner, Creative DVD, two big WD Hdds, Outboard 56K modem
            Parallel Port Scanner, Creative S/B AWE 64 (ISA), and a new Logitech WebCam (My first USB device)

            Comment


            • #7
              one very easy way to see of your capstan (or was it capston) wheel is worn out: it should be perfect round. If not, you definately need to replace it.

              Comment


              • #8
                DZ capstan wheels normally don't cause problems. If it is wearing the one would also hear additional "wow & flutter" induced or spastic slipping. Nehalmistry's problem doesn't sound like that.

                The capstan belt on the otherhand is only accessable if the machine is taken apart. It's the main one that drives the entire mechanism (typically). If you're not sure of these parts then have the unit serviced by a respectable store.
                "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

                "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bixler, Great explanation ... sounds like you've done quite a bit of taping, or you're a repair tech. You're not a Dead-Head, are you?
                  <TABLE BGCOLOR=Red><TR><TD><Font-weight="+1"><font COLOR=Black>The world just changed, Sep. 11, 2001</font></Font-weight></TR></TD></TABLE>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    BTW K1 grade kerosene is much better to clean the capstan and pinch roller with. Alchohol will cause the pinch roller to dryout over time and harden. Do not use rubbing alcohol, as it contains glycern that'll attract dirt and grime (let alone the gook that will build up on tapes).
                    "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

                    "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Nehalmistry:

                      1. If it's a newer unit, and most of the insides are plastic... then... either deal with it or pitch it.

                      2. Is this an all-in-one unit? Casette, CD, and Radio in one unit? If so, then you're usually SOL.

                      3. There is likely only one motor driving both heads. The incorrect amount of tension on the drive system (caused by using the CD adapter exclusively) can cause one of two things to happen:

                      3a. Your motor is miscalibrated. Usually there are little pots to adjust this, however it can be VERY touchy. If there aren't adjustments, you're SOL. Pitch the whole unit or cope with it.

                      3b. The primary drive belt has become loose or stretched. A new belt will help here, however finding one may be difficult.

                      Hope some of this helps! If you're still running an all-in-one, invest the money you were saving for a G800 and grab a couple of component pieces!

                      - Gurm

                      ------------------
                      Listen up, you primitive screwheads! See this? This is my BOOMSTICK! Etc. etc.
                      The Internet - where men are men, women are men, and teenage girls are FBI agents!

                      I'm the least you could do
                      If only life were as easy as you
                      I'm the least you could do, oh yeah
                      If only life were as easy as you
                      I would still get screwed

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        gurm: its all in one unit, cd, cassette, radio

                        and im guessing the inside's are made of plastic, what else could they be made from?


                        btw, im narrowing down to the motor/belt because both decks go same speed..... i will try to look for the pots that gurm is talking bout...

                        ------------------
                        P5A-B AMD K6-266@300
                        Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP (oh, lets party)
                        Creative SB Awe32 (a classic, superb card)
                        Realtek 8029A NIC Card
                        64meg Ram
                        Ali V agp chipset
                        ICQ UIN: 24730025
                        <font size="1">Gigabyte GA-6VXC7-4X MoBo
                        VIA Apollo Pro 133a (694x/686A) chipset (4x agp, UDMA 66)
                        Celeron II 733 CPU (coppermine 128)
                        128meg (2x64) 133mhz SDRam
                        Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP 16 mb
                        Creative Sound Blaster Live! 5.1 Digital model 0100 (MP3+, Gamer)
                        Quantum LM 30 gig HD 7200 RPM UDMA 66
                        Realtek 8029A NIC Card
                        Optiquest V775 17" Monitor
                        Actima 36X CD-Rom
                        Advansys 510 SCSI Card (ISA, but good enuf for my burner)
                        Yamaha 6416 CD-RW
                        Windows 2000 (primary)
                        Slackware Linux 9.0(secondary/emergency)</font>

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Xortam:

                          I was a chief cook and bottlewasher store manager of a mid-high end stereo shop back in the days of Carver, Dahlquist, etc. In other words, the stone ages. Integrated circuits and cheap, mass produced, pitch-it-out-the-window-when-it breaks stereo gear put me out of business years ago.

                          Just like comps, I picked up knowledge of these things on a need-to-know basis. That's why I sometimes mess up with precise terminology as Greebe and Gurm have both gently pointed out.

                          I'm not a deadhead, but my son is.

                          Nehalmistry:

                          Good advice from Greebe about the kerosene. I suggested alcohol 'cause you can usually get your hands on it, and it would tell the tale.

                          Gurm's right (As always--keep away from me with that boomstick ) As far as I would EVER suggest you go with one of these plastic mass produced marvels is to try cleaning the belt of the main drive motor. If you get the unit open, (many of them snap together these days and you must tear them up to get them apart) just follow the mechanism from the pinch roller I described above and follow the drive train to the main drive motor, cleaning as you go. Finding the right belt to replace will NOT be easy unless you know one of those old mom and pop repair shops where they still stock parts.

                          Good Luck
                          Greebe's juiced up Athlon @750 on an MSI Irongate Based M/B Marvel G200 TV with HW/DVD Daughtercard,
                          CDBurner, Creative DVD, two big WD Hdds, Outboard 56K modem
                          Parallel Port Scanner, Creative S/B AWE 64 (ISA), and a new Logitech WebCam (My first USB device)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            * I CAN'T OPEN IT *

                            btw, dont think im an idiot, i have tried every screwdriver to open this, i couldnt find one thats perfect, all of them are either too short, too fat, or a wrong head type (requires small phillips)

                            how much will it cost to repair something like this, my estimate is that it will be better to buy a new unit... a new unit like this will cost me about $100-$150 CDN ($66-$100 USD)

                            any hints on what i should do now??

                            ------------------
                            P5A-B AMD K6-266@300
                            Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP (oh, lets party)
                            Creative SB Awe32 (a classic, superb card)
                            Realtek 8029A NIC Card
                            64meg Ram
                            Ali V agp chipset
                            ICQ UIN: 24730025
                            <font size="1">Gigabyte GA-6VXC7-4X MoBo
                            VIA Apollo Pro 133a (694x/686A) chipset (4x agp, UDMA 66)
                            Celeron II 733 CPU (coppermine 128)
                            128meg (2x64) 133mhz SDRam
                            Matrox Milleniumm G200 AGP 16 mb
                            Creative Sound Blaster Live! 5.1 Digital model 0100 (MP3+, Gamer)
                            Quantum LM 30 gig HD 7200 RPM UDMA 66
                            Realtek 8029A NIC Card
                            Optiquest V775 17" Monitor
                            Actima 36X CD-Rom
                            Advansys 510 SCSI Card (ISA, but good enuf for my burner)
                            Yamaha 6416 CD-RW
                            Windows 2000 (primary)
                            Slackware Linux 9.0(secondary/emergency)</font>

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sorry for your frustration nehalmistry. I doubt that you'll find a screwdriver from any local hardware store that'll work. I know GC electronics sold a Loooong philips screwdriver a few years ago that's just right for the job (I have one). Sorry no P# tho

                              Most every electronics supply store should have belts available (for cheap, ie a buck or two) including the ledgendary "Belt-O-Meter" made by GC for acurately determining length and width of all belts for the devices. If they have that then you should find the screw driver there too (special order possible).

                              check out http://www.parts-express.com/ http://www.i-mcm.com/

                              Altho these are commonly tossed into the dumpster when any problem arise, the belt is normally the only thing to fail in the short term. If spending a few dollars on tools and a part then by all means I suggest fixing it.\

                              BTW these "Pots" don't detune themselves... please leave alone unless you know what does what and have calibratation tapes/test equipment handy.
                              "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

                              "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

                              Comment

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