PDA

View Full Version : I think I killed my CPU



Helevitia
10th July 2007, 22:52
So I've been pushing the crap out of my cpu lately and finally settled in on 3.4G for an E6600. I raced a few laps this morning playing TM United, locked my PC(you know, so you have to put a password to get back in) and left for work.

I get home, go to unlock my computer but my monitors won't turn on. Hmmm, I wonder what might have happened. I reset the computer, no monitor, no beeps, nada... I turn off the power supply, wait 2 minutes, turn it back on, still nothing :( Try one memory stick at a time, also in different slots. Starting to get depressed, so I literally rip apart my computer, put it all back together and still nothing, nada, Kaput!

Anybody have any ideas besides the cpu or mobo. Since this is all brand new parts, I don't have any extra lying around to try out :( If it was anything other than the mobo or cpu, I'd get something, beeps, BIOS screen, something! But I get nothing. Actually, I get a familiar noise I have gotten used to when I overclock my system to high, which is, the fan on the video card spins at the highest rpm, that is how I know it wont go any further and I have to bring it down a notch.

So before I go blindly replacing parts, I thought I'd check with you guys first. Also, since I bought a retail CPU, you think they will replace it? How does that work? If I overclock, obviously it is not covered under warranty, but will they know? do they care? Thanks!

Mehen
10th July 2007, 23:54
do the jumper thingy to reset bios

try a different PSU

It's not lupus.

I've never had a CPU die or try to return one, but I suspect they will replace it. Just don't mention the overclocking. I don't think they will be able to tell - all that info would just be in the BIOS.

knirfie
11th July 2007, 00:41
Does the mobo give any kind of beeps or signal? If the mobo still works and the CPU is dead you should at least get some beeps over the PC speaker. Or a code on the 7 segment display if your mobo features that.

My best guess would be the mobo or PSU is giving you trouble. You have probably already tried it, but you could reset the BIOS as Mehen sugested.

Fat Tone
11th July 2007, 01:35
Don't these CPUs and/or mobos have a shut-down protection mechanism? A good reset (remove battery, short pins for some time) could be all that is needed.

Do you have a volt-meter to check the PSU?

rylan
11th July 2007, 08:12
Try clearing the cmos as mentioned incase its stuck at some high clock setting for the CPU. Otherwise, my guess would be the power supply.

Evildead666
11th July 2007, 09:37
edit : i need to read the 1st post better. ;)

The GPU fan always goes at 100% on boot sequence.
My 8800GTS and all the other variable speed fan cards i've had have done it.

Turn off PSU. Hold "Insert", switch on PSU and switch on PC until a beep. (works like clear CMOS, or bad Overclock.)

If no beep. Take out memory, gpu, and just leave the CPU, no PCI cards. No HDD's.
Should beep like mad.
Then put in GPU, or borrow cheap PCI GPU card. Too see if anything on screen.
One by one, put things back in until crash.

That is, if any reaction from the first action with just CPU.

Helevitia
11th July 2007, 14:38
do the jumper thingy to reset bios

try a different PSU

It's not lupus.

I've never had a CPU die or try to return one, but I suspect they will replace it. Just don't mention the overclocking. I don't think they will be able to tell - all that info would just be in the BIOS.

I will try clearing CMOS when I get home. I'd be really surprised if that was it since the Asus P5K recovery mechanisms are setup really well. Better than all motherboards I have used in the past. usually a reset is all that is needed to fix it.

I will try a different PSU probably this weekend(or tomorrow hopefully!). Actually, the same exact PSU I have since my buddy bought the exact same system. He is scared for me to come over and use his PC as a troubleshooting tool :D

It's not Lupus????

Helevitia
11th July 2007, 14:39
Does the mobo give any kind of beeps or signal? If the mobo still works and the CPU is dead you should at least get some beeps over the PC speaker. Or a code on the 7 segment display if your mobo features that.

My best guess would be the mobo or PSU is giving you trouble. You have probably already tried it, but you could reset the BIOS as Mehen sugested.

No beeps but the green LED on the mobo lights up when I flick on the PSU. I thought if your CPU was dead, you'd get no beeps? I have no 7 segment display. gonna try resetting the BIOS tonight.

Helevitia
11th July 2007, 14:41
Don't these CPUs and/or mobos have a shut-down protection mechanism? A good reset (remove battery, short pins for some time) could be all that is needed.

Do you have a volt-meter to check the PSU?

If my system fails at overclocking, it won't allow me into the system unless I reset and down clocks everything below spec just to make sure it boots. This is why I am thinking dead CPU. I'll either check the PSU with a voltage meter or use my buddies PSU.

Helevitia
11th July 2007, 14:44
Try clearing the cmos as mentioned in case its stuck at some high clock setting for the CPU. Otherwise, my guess would be the power supply.

As I mentioned in the above post, the way Asus works on this mobo is that it clears the high overclock if it fails and underclocks everything so when you reset, it will boot up.

Helevitia
11th July 2007, 14:48
edit : i need to read the 1st post better. ;)

The GPU fan always goes at 100% on boot sequence.
My 8800GTS and all the other variable speed fan cards i've had have done it.

Yep, and usually after the first few secodns it slows down, atleast on my setup, but ow it just spins at the highest rpm forever :(



Turn off PSU. Hold "Insert", switch on PSU and switch on PC until a beep. (works like clear CMOS, or bad Overclock.)

Never heard of this one! Tried ti quickly this morning before I left but didn't seem to resolve anything.



If no beep. Take out memory, gpu, and just leave the CPU, no PCI cards. No HDD's.
Should beep like mad.
Then put in GPU, or borrow cheap PCI GPU card. Too see if anything on screen.
One by one, put things back in until crash.

That is, if any reaction from the first action with just CPU.

I'll try this, thanks.

BTW, thank you to everyone who replied with suggestions, much appreciated! I'll try all of these things when I get home.

One last thing I thought of is that the mobo led comes on and if I disconnect the video card secondary power connector(6 pin), the video card emits this awful squealing! I guess that is what it is supposed to do without the 6 pin connector?

Thanks everyone! I'll post more as I find out more.

ND66
11th July 2007, 19:00
Do you have any clue how hot was the CPU running at 3.4G?

Mehen
11th July 2007, 23:40
It's not lupus. It's never lupus. Just helping you out in your differential diagnosis.

It's a House reference.

Helevitia
12th July 2007, 00:02
Do you have any clue how hot was the CPU running at 3.4G?

Yep, very cool. 21-23c at idle depending on time of day and 41-47c at load. but it's not the CPU because I just replaced it and still no go :( I think it's the mobo. Tomorrow I will plug in my buddy's PSU and if still doesn't work after that, I will buy a new mobo to make sure.

Fry's has a great return policy so no money out of my pocket, just frustration and time...

Helevitia
12th July 2007, 00:15
BTW, I did clear cmos and pull everything out but the cpu and still nothing. Also, the manual says that you only need to clear cmos if something in BIOS(other than overclocking) is keeping the system from booting up. Otherwise just power down the system, power back up and tada! you are back up and going again. This is for bad overclocks only.

Evildead666
12th July 2007, 07:17
Quite probably the Mobo then.
Pretty rare nowadays, but I suppose its still possible.

My systems tend to be on the limit of catching fire when I overclock, and i'm surprised I have never killed anything.

Was sufficient air being blown over the voltage regulators for the CPU ?
Thats the only thing I can think of that would get very hot, but the mobo makers know this and tend to put nice big radiators on them...
That and the fact that Core arch. takes less power than my Pentium D setup, which is pushing the board to its limits.
My mobo actually switches off very "roughly" ie it just cuts everything as if there was a power cut on reboot. It started doing this once I went out of spec on the FSB for the CPU.
I'm not surprised since some of my previous mobos have done the same.
Thats why my fans and watercooling are on an old external 200W AT PSU.
That makes sure that even if I have a severe power failure in the PC, the cooling doesn't shut down.

I'm using an ASUS P5WD2 and it is very stable, even when I over do it, and yes, it just reboots at standard settings when that happens.

Maybe the BIOS is corrupted, that would sort of explain the Mobo's attempt to start the POST sequence, spinning up the GPU Fan (it receives a certain signal from the Mobo), and then just stalls, staying forever at that point, pre-POST.

I suppose you'll be better off when you've done some tests on another mobo.

good luck ;-)

p.s. i'm not sure if this (Turn off PSU. Hold "Insert", switch on PSU and switch on PC until a beep.) works on a USB keyboard. I've only had it work on PS/2 Keyboards. Probably something to do with the initialisation of the USB bus...

Evildead666
12th July 2007, 07:27
I tell a lie, i did kill my Mobile AXP 2500+ chip, it went to 2.64GHz for a long time, but when I tried to downclock to its original speed, it failed and never woke up.
It was watercooled, and I believe that it committed "Hara kiri" cos it didn't want to go back to the old speed. ;-)

Helevitia
12th July 2007, 09:28
Was sufficient air being blown over the voltage regulators for the CPU ?

I have 6 120mm fans. 5 case fans and 1 for the CPU :) I definitely have sufficient airflow.


Thats the only thing I can think of that would get very hot, but the mobo makers know this and tend to put nice big radiators on them...

You are right and this board is known for getting very hot in that area, but as long as you have decent airflow, you should be ok.

Thanks for the thoughts and feedback :)

Helevitia
12th July 2007, 17:03
Good news and bad news.

Good news: The problem is actually the SATA ports! This motherboard is known t have problems wiht the SATA ports, but I thought I got a "good" board. Nope, after fiddling with my system for hours at my buddies house today, I finally started to get an emerging pattern with sata cables, moving them around and HDD errors on boot up in the Intel RAID BIOS screen. But it wasn't easy because it wasn't anything I could nail down because sometimes moving the cables would do nothing where other times it would work and then other times it would boot up but error out on the BIOS screen. Even unplugging and plugging in power to the sata devices caused intermittent results. Anyway, it looks like bad SATA connectors

Bad News: Gotta RMA the board :(

Helevitia
12th July 2007, 21:50
Crap! Now one of my Raptors are reporting that it is bad and I should back up my data immediately. To confirm if it was truly the Raptor and not the sata port, I swapped cables and still had the same error, so I swapped ports and the error follow the port :( So I guess I will RMA both the mobo and the Raptor just to be safe.

New problem, I can't use Vista's built in backup to back up the entire PC to the network drive! What a joke! That should be a no brainer! It just simply won't let you and others are complaining of the same thing.

Anybody know any free software to do entire drive backups to a nas or nework drive?

The PIT
13th July 2007, 11:31
I suspect you've got a duff motherboard and theres nothing wrong with your hard drive unless you've had a large mains spike through your system thats fried everything.

Evildead666
17th July 2007, 12:11
Go to the WD site, they have a utility to boot from to completely scan your drive.
If there are any bad sectors, it will tell oyu, and the drive wil reallocate sectors that it has spare.

I have a Raptor 150 (this ones good so far), a 76 (had problems a few times, 3, but OK and fine after the WD utility), and a 36 (maybe 3 problems also, one bad with loss of data, was cable coming loose problem. still going fine)

edit :

http://support.wdc.com/download/index.asp?swid=1

choose the Raptor 10000rpm drive, and the tool for windows or whatever on the right, whichevr you want. ;)

also, try putting a brand new sata cable. worked for me.