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Abit KT7 incompatible with LiteOn LTR-24102B

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  • Abit KT7 incompatible with LiteOn LTR-24102B

    Based upon my experience so far I would have to say yes. It doesn't work. It is detected as LTR-24102B in the BIOS as a ATA33 device . It cannot be booted from or discs read from it, much less to write (I actually didn't try to). It works in my work machine so I doubt there is anything physically wrong with the drive. It the KT7 machine I also notice that it blinks excessively whenever a disc is put in. Oh well the plextor 8X goes back in for now. It seems that it is time to upgrade my mobo (Suggestions please, but I'd likke to keep me SDRAM, esp as I just got 256 more)
    [size=1]D3/\/7YCR4CK3R
    Ryzen: Asrock B450M Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB G-Skill Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 RAM, 1TB Seagate SATA HD, 256GB myDigital PCIEx4 M.2 SSD, Samsung LI24T350FHNXZA 24" HDMI LED monitor, Klipsch Promedia 4.2 400, Win11
    Home: M1 Mac Mini 8GB 256GB
    Surgery: HP Stream 200-010 Mini Desktop,Intel Celeron 2957U Processor, 6 GB RAM, ADATA 128 GB SSD, Win 10 home ver 22H2
    Frontdesk: Beelink T4 8GB

  • #2
    Nah it's just buggy Via hardware / drivers.
    You can try going into the bios setting the auto detect for the drive to none. If you're using via ide drivers you can try the the inbuilt Microsoft ones to see if that fixes it or try another version.
    I've also noticed that Cdrom/dvd drives prefer being set as master and being on the primary channel as well.
    Chief Lemon Buyer no more Linux sucks but not as much
    Weather nut and sad git.

    My Weather Page

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    • #3
      This is not a driver issue as it won't boot from the LiteOn. The LiteOn works in my work machine which is VIA KM133 based. It seems to be something in my particular setup. I'm thinking either there is a problem with the drive and my mobo, or perhaps my PSU is to blame. I am going to try running the LiteOn off a separate PSU. Are there any inherent dangers in doing this?
      [size=1]D3/\/7YCR4CK3R
      Ryzen: Asrock B450M Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB G-Skill Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 RAM, 1TB Seagate SATA HD, 256GB myDigital PCIEx4 M.2 SSD, Samsung LI24T350FHNXZA 24" HDMI LED monitor, Klipsch Promedia 4.2 400, Win11
      Home: M1 Mac Mini 8GB 256GB
      Surgery: HP Stream 200-010 Mini Desktop,Intel Celeron 2957U Processor, 6 GB RAM, ADATA 128 GB SSD, Win 10 home ver 22H2
      Frontdesk: Beelink T4 8GB

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      • #4
        Separate PSU works

        Which means my PSU is supplying inadequate power for the burner. Whether not enough or dirty I'm not sure. I think I need a good 400 W PSU
        [size=1]D3/\/7YCR4CK3R
        Ryzen: Asrock B450M Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB G-Skill Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 RAM, 1TB Seagate SATA HD, 256GB myDigital PCIEx4 M.2 SSD, Samsung LI24T350FHNXZA 24" HDMI LED monitor, Klipsch Promedia 4.2 400, Win11
        Home: M1 Mac Mini 8GB 256GB
        Surgery: HP Stream 200-010 Mini Desktop,Intel Celeron 2957U Processor, 6 GB RAM, ADATA 128 GB SSD, Win 10 home ver 22H2
        Frontdesk: Beelink T4 8GB

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        • #5
          Abit KT7 + LiteOn 24x10x40x

          Here we go again... something doesnt work => blame the componet that some people love to hate.

          Had a LiteOn CDR working with my Abit KT7 for quite a while now, and NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER. It was GO from the day one, no tweaking required.

          PeTe

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          • #6
            No PeTe this is not a case of blame the component people love to hate. The drive works without problems in my KM133 mobo at work without any probs whatsoever. It works on my mother's Cyrix 266 as well. I haven't had PSU related problems with my mobo and 300W PSU. In fact if you bloody check my posts regarding my mobo they are usually saying something like "I got a good one", referring to the fact that I haven't had (m)any problems with it. Luckily I have spare PSUs around.
            [size=1]D3/\/7YCR4CK3R
            Ryzen: Asrock B450M Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB G-Skill Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 RAM, 1TB Seagate SATA HD, 256GB myDigital PCIEx4 M.2 SSD, Samsung LI24T350FHNXZA 24" HDMI LED monitor, Klipsch Promedia 4.2 400, Win11
            Home: M1 Mac Mini 8GB 256GB
            Surgery: HP Stream 200-010 Mini Desktop,Intel Celeron 2957U Processor, 6 GB RAM, ADATA 128 GB SSD, Win 10 home ver 22H2
            Frontdesk: Beelink T4 8GB

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            • #7
              Have you tried my suggested bios settings. Refusing to boot can also be a firmware problem with the via chipset or a bios problem so it maybe worth upgrading the motherboards bios as well.
              Also is there anything else on the same ide channel.
              Chief Lemon Buyer no more Linux sucks but not as much
              Weather nut and sad git.

              My Weather Page

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              • #8
                DentyCracker,

                Do you really think i everytime do a seach just to check what else you might have posted on a piece of hardware you just call crap on the first post.

                Just getting pretty pissed about the fact that most people pinpoint their problems to ONE single component, when in most cases its about some weird combo of hardware + software + program/bios settings that is causing the problem. And if one component had some problems with someone else, why not blame that one for the whole thing.

                And btw, i only posted that to make sure that you would know that there are none Abit-LiteOn problems, so you could start looking the real reason for your problems. Maybe my post was a bit "hostile", but you cant be on a good mood all the time. Sorry about that one.

                PeTe

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                • #9
                  "I am going to try running the LiteOn off a separate PSU. Are there any inherent dangers in doing this?"

                  I would say that it is not a good idea, as there will be no way to guarantee that both the supplies will start delivering its regulated outputs at exactly the same point in time - thereby defeating the purpose of the "power-good" signal on the psu that allow things to start in a controlled and orderly manner.

                  If you do decide that you HAVE to go with this method of troubleshooting, just make sure that the "common" rail wires (black) of the supplies are tied together before you start the rig.
                  Lawrence

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                  • #10
                    I'm sorry Pete but I think your over reacting, Denty didn't say that the KT7 was a POS or Abit are the worse company in the world all he said is that he thought there was a compatibility issue with the LiteOn. Reading his troubleshooting steps is understandable how he came to that conclusion.

                    I'm not trying to start a flame war I just think that your comment was a bit over the top but as you say we do all have bad days.
                    When you own your own business you only have to work half a day. You can do anything you want with the other twelve hours.

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                    • #11
                      I don't want to seem overly hostile, but if people would read the posts then they would probably not post certain things. What has transpired is this

                      1. I bought a LTR-24102B for $99
                      2. I put it in my KM133 chipset machine and it works
                      3. I carry it home and replace my Plextor PX-W8432T, it is detected but doesn't work as documented.
                      4. After some troubleshooting I decide to post looking for help
                      5. It seems that I left the question sign off the end of the topic.
                      6. I suspect that it could be power problem so I take an old AT PS and connect it to the burner
                      7. The LTR-24102B works with my Abit KT7 without a problem, once it has good power

                      Because it works with my board and your board does not mean that there is no problem.
                      The mobo could be causing the PS to be screwed up.
                      Different revisions of the same mobo may behave differently.

                      The burner will not read a copy of Fifa2002 that is read by the PX-W8432T

                      I start the PSU for the CDRW first
                      [size=1]D3/\/7YCR4CK3R
                      Ryzen: Asrock B450M Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB G-Skill Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 RAM, 1TB Seagate SATA HD, 256GB myDigital PCIEx4 M.2 SSD, Samsung LI24T350FHNXZA 24" HDMI LED monitor, Klipsch Promedia 4.2 400, Win11
                      Home: M1 Mac Mini 8GB 256GB
                      Surgery: HP Stream 200-010 Mini Desktop,Intel Celeron 2957U Processor, 6 GB RAM, ADATA 128 GB SSD, Win 10 home ver 22H2
                      Frontdesk: Beelink T4 8GB

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                      • #12
                        PeTe,

                        I've had problems with KT7 boards before. The issue isn't design nearly as much as manufacturing quality.

                        We used them in the shop for a period of about three months. After those three months, we gave up and used MSI K7TPro instead.

                        Some examples of strange problems:
                        - Highpoint controller on KT7-RAID only registering 1 PCI device, so second channel operates in legacy mode only
                        - Lockups with G200 MMS, an older PCI Matrox card, as well as general instability with Nvidia cards
                        - Bad/leaking caps around CPU socket
                        - Boards that don't boot unless you hit reset after powering it on
                        - Memory problems (either wouldn't detect a perfectly good memory stick, or refuse to boot with CONFIGMG errors and such)

                        We built plenty of decent, stable system with these boards. But many of the ones that failed or were defective, were WAY out there. As a result, it was way too costly in terms of bench time and pissed off customers to keep stocking the boards.

                        I can't deny that ABIT is a name brand and that many people swear by them. I had a IT5H for years that I never had problems with. But I don't recommend their Socket-A boards, based on my experience. The quality is too spotty and their support leaves something to be desired. Since using MSI for Socket-A boards, I hear from the shop that there have been very few strange issues like the ones we had with ABIT.

                        So anyway, it's fine that you got a perfect board, but just because somebody arrives at the conclusion that their mainboard is at fault, doesn't mean they are automatically wrong just because _yours_ works.

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                        • #13
                          Abit is well known for quality variation.

                          Denty, there aren't any problems with using a second power supply. I know of some people who do it as part of their standard config. I would just make sure that the supply that powers the CPU comes on last.
                          Gigabyte P35-DS3L with a Q6600, 2GB Kingston HyperX (after *3* bad pairs of Crucial Ballistix 1066), Galaxy 8800GT 512MB, SB X-Fi, some drives, and a Dell 2005fpw. Running WinXP.

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                          • #14
                            Update, more problems

                            Ok, it worked for a couple days then it stopped and started to behave as it did when it was connected to the normal PSU.
                            I have got it to work with a machine I was building for my cousin (a 1.2GB athlon with 256 MB RAM and a 230W PSU oh and an MSI 6378 mobo). It works in my work both with my PSU and the one originally in the case. I am now going to check the work PSU in my machine and see whether that works. If it does I'll simply keep that power supply. hehehe. Of note is that my 300W PSU is rated to give 20A on the +5V and 8A on the +12V, whereas the work PSU is rated to give 25A and 10A respectively. Hey PeTe, what are your BIOS rev. for KT7 and LTR-24102B
                            [size=1]D3/\/7YCR4CK3R
                            Ryzen: Asrock B450M Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB G-Skill Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 RAM, 1TB Seagate SATA HD, 256GB myDigital PCIEx4 M.2 SSD, Samsung LI24T350FHNXZA 24" HDMI LED monitor, Klipsch Promedia 4.2 400, Win11
                            Home: M1 Mac Mini 8GB 256GB
                            Surgery: HP Stream 200-010 Mini Desktop,Intel Celeron 2957U Processor, 6 GB RAM, ADATA 128 GB SSD, Win 10 home ver 22H2
                            Frontdesk: Beelink T4 8GB

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                            • #15
                              HeHeHe!!!

                              It seems I may have a new PSU hehehe. So far I am playing a burnt CDRW audioCD that I created while the burner was in the work machine. The only proviso is that It behaves erratically with the Toshiba DVD installed, so I removed that. Luckily I'll be able to test whether my DVD is defective or whether that model of DVD as SS to the CDRW's SM is a cause of incompatibility on this mobo as the identical DVD is in the work machine (as SS to the burner's SM as well) Will keep you updated.
                              [size=1]D3/\/7YCR4CK3R
                              Ryzen: Asrock B450M Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, 16GB G-Skill Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 RAM, 1TB Seagate SATA HD, 256GB myDigital PCIEx4 M.2 SSD, Samsung LI24T350FHNXZA 24" HDMI LED monitor, Klipsch Promedia 4.2 400, Win11
                              Home: M1 Mac Mini 8GB 256GB
                              Surgery: HP Stream 200-010 Mini Desktop,Intel Celeron 2957U Processor, 6 GB RAM, ADATA 128 GB SSD, Win 10 home ver 22H2
                              Frontdesk: Beelink T4 8GB

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